The Year Of Indian Jewellery Design

The world’s most impactful style platforms showcased Indian design and craftsmanship — through exquisite natural diamond jewellery adorned by iconic global stars. In 2024, real diamonds told real stories — of cultural identity, professional achievement, personal expression, and family bonds. And the weavers of these tales? Indian designers, who are inspired by the country’s jewellery traditions and their international influences to define a new aesthetic.

Cardi B in Kamyen Jewellery

A story of maximalism emerged at the world’s most prestigious fashion showcase, with statement jewellery by Kamyen. Cardi B turned to this family-run private label for a look where the radiance of natural diamonds met gothic glamour — bringing together two seemingly opposing forces of style with high drama. A necklace featuring a Colombian centre emerald and 127.42 carats of fancy natural diamonds, and cascading earrings with yellow and briolette diamonds, marked her arrival on the iconic steps, rivalling the visual extravagance of her Windowsen tulle gown that practically took over the red carpet at the MET Gala. It’s no surprise — this appointment-only label, founded by third-generation diamantaire Pooja Gandhi in 2010, is known for its exceptional gemstones and one-off designs.

Indian origin label Kamyen’s necklace was made for Cardi B’s gothic glam gown – creating a maximal moment at the MET Gala. 

Rihanna in Manish Malhotra High Jewellery

A ruby and diamond choker by Manish Malhotra, whose foray into high jewellery echoes his affinity for Indian craftsmanship — as demonstrated in over 35 years of designing for iconic Bollywood films and celebrities — became not just a statement of style but of self. At the launch of Fenty Hair in Los Angeles, Rihanna wore this striking piece, paired with a red bodycon dress and oversized bomber, in a celebration of authenticity and individuality. Her crown of natural, carefree curly hair represented what natural diamonds have always stood for: self-expression.

Iconic Bollywood designer Manish Malhotra created a ruby and natural diamond choker for Rihanna’s Fenty Hair Launch – a testament to his craft. 

Meryl Streep in Hanut Singh

Natural diamonds mark milestones — for Meryl Streep, no stranger to professional accolades, they accompanied her acceptance of the Palme d’Or at Cannes Film Festival, the highest recognition in cinema. A pair of subtle pendant earrings accentuated with real diamonds and black enamel by Hanut Singh, paired with a white Dior gown, underscored a commonality: good design, much like a good performance, lies in impeccable, almost imperceptible details. The outing echoes the finesse of royal jewellery traditions — a signature of Hanut Singh, who draws from his ancestral legacy of Kapurthala to create modern-day masterpieces.

Isha Ambani in Viren Bhagat

What more can we say about the wedding of the century? Let us instead start with the very beginning, with jewels that established the tone of the wedding: opulent and exquisite. In her first look, Isha Ambani wore a custom blush Miss Sohee ensemble with jewellery by Viren Bhagat, featuring natural pearls and solitaire diamonds. More than beautiful accessories, they were an expression of unparalleled artistry — a mainstay of this fourth-generation jeweller, who dominates the biggest style platforms yet remains famously elusive. The piece exemplifies his expertise in exceptional stones — Golconda diamonds, in this case, offset by rare pearls — and designs that give them pride of place.

Golconda diamonds, natural pearls and true artistry – Viren Bhagat’s Solitaire masterpiece for Isha Ambani was both elegant and iconic. 

Amy Jackson in Ananya Fine Jewellery

A marriage of past and present, elegance and ease, East and West — the eternal allure of natural diamonds heralding a new forever. When actors Amy Jackson and Ed Westwick started their wedding celebrations along the Amalfi Coast, the bride chose a look that exemplified la dolce vita — with a sense of whimsy courtesy jewels by Indian designer Ananya Malhotra, whose work draws from Indian heritage and spirituality, and the importance of jewellery in traditional ceremonies. Triple hoop natural diamond and pearl earrings by her London-based label Ananya Fine Jewellery, reminiscent of the Indian bali, celebrate the cultural significance of hoops (or circular earrings) as a marker of unity. In this contemporary rendition, they also brought modernity to Jackson’s outfit, a classic Vivienne Westwood design with a fitted bodice. What’s old-world glamour without a hint of playfulness?

Drawing from Indian heritage and spirituality, designer Ananya Malhotra’s triple hoop natural diamonds added a touch of whimsy to Amy Jackson’s wedding ensemble.  

Julia Chafe in Sajjante

The grand Ambani celebrations had an unexpected star — Julia Chafe, the New York-based content creator whose reels documenting the magnificent jewellery worn by the family and guests went viral amid a sea of coverage. It’s only fitting, then, that an invitation to attend the wedding came with her own natural diamond moment: a maang tikka and diamond ear climbers by Sajjante, which drew inspiration from the paisley. Mumbai-based founder Sajil Shah, who trained in Florence, brings together Florentine techniques and Indian sensibilities and motifs, in pieces that define rooted, contemporary design. Chafe’s jewellery celebrated this refined aesthetic, with the luminescence of natural diamonds complementing her  neutral Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla lehenga. Earlier this year, she told NDC, “I’ve never worn a headpiece before, and it made me feel so special and beautiful. We in the West should also adapt to wearing jewellery in more places because it was fabulous.”

Inspired by the iconic Indian paisley, influencer Julia Chafe drew all eyes in natural diamond ear climbers by Sajjante. 

Sudha Reddy in Farah Khan World

For philanthropist and art patron Sudha Reddy, every grand outing is an opportunity to share India’s artistic expertise with the world. This year’s MET Gala further cemented this idea. At the literal heart of this? The ‘Amore Eterno’ diamond necklace by Farah Khan World, featuring 25 extraordinary solitaires over 180 carats from around the world, handcrafted in India. Four centre heart diamond solitaires, one at 25 carats, the others at 20 carats, represent a timeless love story with Indian craftsmanship and natural diamonds. The piece also represents Farah Khan’s biggest inspirations — nature and love, with each natural diamond not just sourced meticulously, but also resonant of Reddy’s personal milestones and family bonds. “The four heart solitaires symbolise her family. We wanted to create not just a piece of jewellery but a legacy of love.”

Handcrafted with over 180 carats of natural diamonds sourced from across the globe, Farah Khan World’s ‘Amore Eterno’ necklace for Sudha Reddy celebrates expert Indian craftsmanship. 

Farhana Bodi in Tryyst

The stars of Dubai Bling gave us mega-style moments on screen — it’s no surprise then that a Diwali celebration themed “Modern Maharani Birkin Brunch” brought on the drama. Farhana Bodi’s Birkins found their match in jewellery by Tryyst, a label that launched in 2023 but carries with it legacy of heritage Indian craftsmanship. Bodi’s natural diamond and emerald drop earrings, a rose gold and natural diamond cuff, and a statement ring in the shape of an elephant spoke to a design that is timeless yet relevant and modern. Founder Pooja Javeri Shah — a global citizen with roots in Antwerp, London, Mumbai, and Dubai — infuses her multiculturalism into each piece, creating designs that assert individuality.

In the past year, Indian jewellers ushered in a new wave, with their natural diamond pieces sparking global conversations on style. If this is an indication of what lies ahead — and we think it is — we can’t wait to see them shine brighter in 2025.