Diamonds and Maharanis: More Than Meets the Eye

The diamond jewellery worn by the Maharanis of India are more than adornments; they are storytellers, capturing India’s rich craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and the progressive spirit of the Maharanis. Images courtesy of: © Christie’s Images Limited, © The Trustees of the British Museum, Bridgeman Images, © 2019 Christie’s Images Limited, © 2002 Christie’s Images Limited, Private Collection of Martand Singh of Kapurthala- Courtesy Roli Books

India’s Maharanis were visionaries and icons who transformed their presence by representing timeless, aspirational tenets of grace, diplomacy and style. In turn, natural diamonds became  powerful expressions of this pursuit, and over time their identity and shared heritage continues to inform us even today. Often, the Maharaja’s gifts of these precious stones became emblems of personal style, authority, and even defiance. In a world where wealth was a given, the diamond jewellery were a language all their own, allowing the Maharanis to communicate something deeper- perhaps who they were beyond the confines of tradition and dynastic power. As India embraced its modern, independent identity, global styles began to shape its cultural and royal expressions.

The Maharani and Her Choker

Maharani Yashoda Devi of Patiala was a woman of quiet force and grace. Married into one of India’s most prominent royal families, Yashoda Devi carried herself with a steady, self-possessed beauty that complemented her husband Maharaja Bhupinder Singh’s larger-than-life presence and grand taste.

Amongst the extensive royal treasury of jewellery was the Patiala Ruby necklace, gifted by the Maharaja to Yashoda Devi and deemed the most expensive jewels in the world. The only remaining piece of this multi-layered necklace is a stunning choker, set with 292 Burmese rubies, 132 pearls, and 60 natural diamonds. The diamonds, weighing over 200 carats, included many that had been reset from heirloom jewellery passed down through generations. Made in 1931 by Cartier, the necklace not only showcased the grandeur of Indian royalty, but also is historically significant in Indian jewellery design, signalling the growing appreciation and influence of Western aesthetics and craftsmanship in India.

The Pearl of India who Wore Diamonds

A true style icon, Rani Sita Devi or Princess Karam was said to be dressed only when completed with jewels. Known as the Pearl of India, she became a muse to renowned photographers like May Ray and Cecil Beaton who immortalised her elegance, beauty and style in their works. Dressed by Mainbocher and Schiaparelli, and adorned by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, she became an international sensation and one of the first Indians on Vogue’s cover.

Rani Sita Devi’s cherished suite of natural diamonds and emeralds was a gift from her husband, Prince Karamjit Singh. Images courtesy of:
Wikicommons, Private Collection of Martand Singh of Kapurthala- Courtesy Roli Books

In a photograph captured by Cecil Beaton, Princess Karam is seen wearing a magnificent natural diamond and emerald necklace and earring set, paired with two Art Deco diamond bracelets by Cartier- all of which remain in the family’s private collection to this day. According to her grandson, the celebrated jewellery designer Hanut Singh, this luxurious suite- a gift from her husband, Prince Karamjit Singh, went on to become a versatile and cherished adornment serving as a stunning testament to her sophisticated taste and artistic appreciation.

Of Opulence and Artistic Excellence

Maharani Sita Devi’s life was as colourful as the jewels she wore. Famously known as India’s Wallis Simpson, she was born in Madras in 1917, leading a life of flamboyance and bold defiance, with a penchant for the finest things. Married to Maharaja Pratap Singh Gaekwad of Baroda, she quickly became one of the most glamorous and charismatic women of her time, her style making waves across the world. A connoisseur of fine jewellery, Sita Devi was a regular client of jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston apart from receiving many jewels from her husband and from the Baroda royal treasury, including the famous Star of the South necklace.

While Indian royalty were greatly influenced by Western aesthetics, jewellery houses, in turn, drew inspiration from the richness and intricacy of Indian designs. One such masterpiece that weaves Sita Devi’s south Indian culture, Mughal heritage, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ expertise is the Hindou Necklace, also known as the Lotus Necklace. Commissioned in 1949, its design emerged from the Mughal-cut emerald beads and gemstones supplied from the Baroda royal treasury. With a natural diamond lotus centrepiece, 13 Colombian emerald drops, the necklace is enhanced by diamond mango motifs and emerald beads, creating a fusion of Eastern heritage and Western artistry.

In contrast, a bracelet ordered by Sita Devi from Cartier in 1953 features baguette-cut real diamonds and baroque-shaped grey and black pearls, set on a platinum base- a reflection of her appreciation of Western styles. Seen wearing the bracelet at various gatherings across the world, the Maharani paired it with similar earrings which she later ordered from Van Cleef & Arpels, and complemented the pieces with custom saris, shoes and purses.

Maharani Sita Devi’s Cartier bracelet, with baguette diamonds and baroque pearls, perfectly paired with custom saris and Van Cleef earrings, captured
her global sophistication. Images courtesy of: Bridgeman Images, © 2019 Christie’s Images Limited

A Crown Jewel

Maharani Mehtab Kaur of Patiala was a royal who blended the rich traditions of Indian nobility with the elegance of British style. Known for her sophistication and cosmopolitan spirit, she was married to Maharaja Yadavindra Singh, the last ruling Maharaja of Patiala. 

One of her most striking pieces of jewellery was a replica of the Cambridge Lover’s Knot Tiara, famously worn by British royals like Queen Mary and Princess Diana. Made for Mehtab Kaur in the mid-20th century, the tiara mirrored the grandeur of the British monarchy with its arches, brilliant natural diamonds, and dangling pearls. While not part of the British royal lineage,  commissioning this tiara wasn’t incidental; it was a nod to the diplomatic ties and shared aesthetics between two worlds, both rooted in royalty but shaped by different histories.

A Legacy of Elegance and Empowerment

As India embraced its newly independent identity, Maharani Gayatri Devi made history by setting a Guinness World Record for the most votes ever cast for a candidate, a testament to her sharp wit, patriotism, and political acumen- qualities that matched her extraordinary beauty, grace, and style. Born into the royal family of Cooch Behar and married to Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II in 1940 she became a symbol of modern royalty. Known for her blend of poise and intellect, Gayatri Devi balanced royal duties with a vibrant social life, driven by a sense of purpose, particularly in advocating for girls’ education and preserving Jaipur’s heritage.

A significant part of her allure was her incredible collection of jewels, which reflected her refined taste and cultural heritage. One of her most iconic pieces was the Cartier Emerald and Platinum Suite- a true Art Deco masterpiece made in the 1930s. The necklace and matching earring set feature cabochon emeralds inlaid with ruby and natural diamond flowers, originally from the Mughal era, it was set in the Western style with baton diamonds. 

Gayatri Devi’s iconic Cartier diamond and emerald suite was a true masterpiece, bringing together Indian and Western craftsmanship.
Images courtesy of: © The Trustees of the British Museum, Wikicommons

The second was an intricate Bulgari set of gold and natural diamonds necklace, earrings and bracelet, featuring scallop-shell designs that were designed to allow for fluidity and movement. Seen pairing these jewels or a string of pearls with her famous chiffon saris, Gayatri Devi redefined modern royalty as timeless, understanded elegance.

The lives and jewellery of the Maharanis reflect a strong duality: glamorous yet deeply purposeful, timeless yet ahead of their era. These women were forward-thinking legends who embraced modernity while honouring tradition, and their style continues to inspire generations today. Their diamond jewels are more than adornments; they are storytellers, capturing India’s rich craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and the progressive spirit of the Maharanis who wore them with effortless sophistication.