Who’s Who in Diamond Jewelry: Catherine Sarr of Almasika
French-Beninese designer, Catherine Sarr discusses contemporary art, universal symbolism, her jewelry label Almasika, and when to start gifting your children diamond jewelry.
Paris native Catherine Sarr’s first piece of jewelry was a natural cowrie shell that she wore around her neck as a teenager. Decades later, when she unveiled her fine jewelry collection Almasika, she reproduced the humble cowrie shell, an ancient African symbol of good fortune, in gold and diamonds and it remains her signature style.
It’s never about fleeting trends, she says. Every design in Sarr’s Almasika collection is imbued with meaning and cultural references. Even her company name has gravitas: It’s derived from almasi, meaning “diamonds” in Swahili, and sika, which translates to “gold” in several West African languages.
Established in 2014, Sarr, 43, calls it “jewelry with intention.” Born to Beninese parents, she grew up in Paris and France’s Champagne region, and lived in London, Abu Dhabi and now resides in Chicago with her husband and four children.
Only Natural Diamonds: How do you imbue meaning in your designs?
Catherine Sarr: My first collection, Le Cauri Endiamanté (cowrie shells), carries deep ancestral symbolism, while the curves in the Harmony collection reflect sound waves. The concentric circles in the Universum were inspired by a 15th century crown from the kingdom of Benin.
The connection to meaningful adornment remains central to my designs. Every design is accompanied by an explanation of its significance, empowering clients to connect with the story and carry these symbols into their own lives as storytellers.
OND: As a contemporary art collector, how does art inspire you?
CS: My husband introduced me to the world of art, and I was captivated by its ability to tell stories and reflect the times we live in. Art challenges me to see forms, materials, and meanings in new ways. The conceptual freedom of contemporary art inspires collections like Universum and Harmony, which draw on principles of balance, simplicity, and symbolism.
OND: Who are your favorite contemporary artists and why?
CS: I’m particularly drawn to artists like Amanda Williams and Khia Celeste for their social commentary, and David Hammons for his thought-provoking pieces. Emerging French artists like Mathias Ben Simon inspire me, as does Olafur Eliasson, whose exploration of light, geometry, and universal themes align with my own aspirations in jewelry.
OND: How did your experience working for De Beers motivate you to start your own collection?
CS: During my years with De Beers Group, I worked at the intersection of storytelling and craftsmanship, promoting jewelers from across the globe. This experience sparked my desire to tell stories through jewelry—stories that connect people, evoke curiosity, and celebrate heritage.
OND: Where do you source diamonds and how does that align with your storytelling?
CS: Whenever possible, I source diamonds from Southern African countries with strong governance. Sometimes I have clients who ask for a specific origin, so I go to my trusted suppliers and site holders. I have some relationships with diamantaires that go back 20 years.
OND: What draws you to natural diamonds?
CS: Diamonds hold light, refract it, and create brilliance in ways that feel almost magical. Beyond their beauty, diamonds carry a deep symbolic weight, representing resilience and eternity. Themes that resonate deeply with me and my designs.
OND: The jewelry you always wear?
CS: My favorites are the Universum bangle, which I dress up and down, and a diamond cowrie shell pendant. I have three diamond eternity bands that I wear every day alongside my wedding band.
OND: What’s your personal style?
CS: I believe in the power of simplicity to make a strong statement. I gravitate towards timeless pieces that balance elegance and functionality, allowing jewelry to be the focal point.
OND: Whose jewelry style do you most admire?
CS: I admire jewelry styles that combine bold vision with timeless craftsmanship. Suzanne Belperron is a particular inspiration for her ability to create designs that were both innovative and enduringly elegant. I look at Belperron’s pieces today and I cannot place a time or era; I just see forms and shapes that are interestingly human, and it’s something that I would want my work to convey.
OND: How does being a mother influence your design?
CS: It inspires me to create pieces that are versatile, practical, yet deeply meaningful—jewelry that mothers can wear every day while carrying symbols of love and protection.
OND: Best part of being a jewelry designer?
CS: Seeing how people connect with the pieces, with the stories and meanings embedded in the designs. It’s incredibly rewarding to know that my work becomes a part of their lives and memories.
OND: Most challenging part of the job?
CS: The hardest part of running a business is finding the balance between creativity and operations. The jewelry industry is highly competitive, and navigating production timelines, sustainability standards, and global markets while staying true to my vision is always a challenge.
OND: Are you building collections for your two daughters?
CS: Yes, I gave my eight-year-old twin girls gold and sapphire stud earrings, little diamond necklaces and bracelets. They don’t wear the necklace yet, but I want them to learn early to appreciate well-made pieces that they can wear for special occasions or at some point (in the future) every day.
OND: Advice for someone starting out in the jewelry business?
CS: Be patient and stay true to your vision. Think about what you want to say to the world and don’t get distracted by all the noise in the industry. When I’m in my design phase, I just focus on my inner voice and what I have to say.
