Inside a Jewelry Designer’s Search for the Most Unique Antique Diamonds on Earth

Stepping into the AGTA GemFair Tucson is like entering a hidden world, where the Earth’s rarest and most beautiful treasures are laid before you, waiting to be discovered, including some of the most unique antique diamonds on the market. It’s not just any trade show; it’s the epicenter of the world’s finest natural gemstones and, if you know where to look, some of the most exceptional antique cut and reclaimed natural diamonds.

This is where the most discerning designers and dealers come together in search of gems and unique antique diamonds that are more than just beautiful, they are pieces of history, formed over billions of years, shaped by human hands, and now awaiting their next chapter.

I had the privilege of joining jewelry designer Darya Khonsary, co-founder and creative force behind Darius Jewels, on her quest for these unique antique diamonds that would inspire her designs and carry the soul and energy in every one of her creations. With an eye for the unusual and a deep reverence for old-world diamond cutting, Darya moves through the show with an effortless sense of purpose, weaving through booths of global specialists who deal exclusively in rare, antique-cut diamonds.

Each stop along the way brings new stories, unexpected finds, and the thrill of uncovering something genuinely unique. It’s an adventure that feels as much like a treasure hunt as it does a study of the history of natural diamonds. As we walk through the show together, I take the opportunity to pick her brain about her process—what draws her to specific stones, what inspires her designs, and what makes this show such a unique and rare experience for those lucky enough to attend.

Only Natural Diamonds: When looking for a diamond at a gem fair like this, what are the first things that catch your eye?

Darya Khonsary: I am naturally drawn to the unusual stones, the seemingly perfect imperfections of an antique old-cut diamond. Something about them feels more natural – a stone that you can tell has been made by the magic of the Earth and shaped by the human hand.

OND: Are you drawn to a particular shape, color, or something more intangible?

DK: It’s not only the shape or color of a stone but also the resonance of the stone itself. I was reading an old Hindu text recently & it had a beautiful metaphor about seeing gemstones as fractions of the Earth’s soul – which is precisely why we are so drawn to them.

OND: How do you define truly unique antique diamonds?

DK: It’s hard to put into words; it’s more of a feeling… At times, the search for a unique stone is like walking along the beach hoping to find the very rare perfect shell…not just a fragment, but a fresh, beautiful shell. If you are lucky enough to find one, it can almost feel like the ocean has left behind a gift for you to find: rare cuts, rare colors… a diamond that is one in a million.

OND: What qualities make a stone stand out to you as something special for one of your designs?

DK: Wonky old mine cuts… open culet…. chubby pears.. elongated pears… diamonds that have soul.

OND: Do you typically have a design in mind before you find perfect unique antique diamonds, or do the diamonds themselves inspire the designs?

DK: It depends, but the best pieces come about by being inspired by the diamonds themselves. When the gold work responds to a stone directly, it is at its highest level of harmony. We exclusively work with antique or reclaimed diamonds, which means no two pieces will ever be the same.

OND: Do you come to the show with a diamond shopping list, or are you simply looking for unique antique diamonds that speak to you?

DK: Whether or not I have an agenda for a show, I always find something that surprises me. Each year is different – this year, I was not looking for anything specific – which made attending the show more fun and allows me to pick up on themes to which I am naturally drawn. I always love to see what my dear friend Randy of Poli Trading Co. is inspired by. He’s an expert and has really opened up my eyes over the past few years and introduced me to unique antique diamonds with rare cuts & colors.

OND: How do you think imperfections contribute to a diamond’s character?

DK: It’s the ‘imperfections’ themselves that make a diamond unique. They tell a story about the stone’s memory and define its singular identity, mirroring our individual, unique nature.

OND: What makes this gem fair so special compared to other types of sourcing?

DK: Tucson is the biggest gem fair in the world – gem dealers from all over the world showcase their best stones. It is a rare once-a-year opportunity to connect with people I otherwise would not have the chance to meet. What I love most about gem shows & the jewelry industry, in general, is that at the end of the day, we really are all so very inspired and magnetized by the same thing – the beauty and majesty of the wonders that the Earth can create.

OND: How would you describe the energy of the fair? Is it more of a high-stakes treasure hunt, a networking event, or a mix of both?

DK: It’s definitely a mix of both. There are dealers that we return to every year that we are loyal to, but it’s always fun to see and meet new stone dealers from all over the world whom we otherwise would not have the chance to meet.

OND: What’s the biggest surprise you’ve found at a show like this?

DK: I’m not sure if it’s necessarily a surprise, but I always notice how truly uncommon it is to find unique antique diamonds among the vendors within the jewelry industry & especially at gem fairs. We work exclusively with antique and reclaimed diamonds, and old special cuts are becoming increasingly difficult to come across. We have strong relationships with incredible dealers specializing in antique stones, but the material gets rarer every year.

OND: For someone who has never been to a gem fair like this, what would surprise them most about how it works or what it’s like?

DK: It is difficult to find unusual, rare, special stones among what seems like millions of loose gems. The quantity of material at these shows is truly unfathomable to someone who hasn’t been in this environment; it’s overwhelming. You have to keep a sharp eye out for special rarities—it can feel like looking for a needle in a haystack at times.

As the day at the fair winds down, Darya’s hands are full of small parcels, each containing a carefully chosen natural diamond. Making the cut are some wonky old mine cuts, chubby pear shapes, elongated beauties, natural color diamonds, and mysterious antique cuts with open culets. Every stone tells a story; in her hands, each one will become part of something much greater—a piece of fine jewelry infused with history, meaning, and an almost mystical sense of protection.

Clearly, this journey is more than just sourcing unique antique diamonds; it’s about a deep connection to the stones, to the artisans who have shaped them over generations, and to the magic that makes people fall in love with jewelry in the first place. Walking through AGTA with Darya, I realized that luxury isn’t about perfection; it’s about rarity, character, and the stories things carry with them. With each careful selection, Darya is ensuring that those stories will continue to be told, worn, and cherished for generations to come.