Mellerio: A Diamond Legacy of Craftsmanship and Innovation
Discover Mellerio, the world’s oldest jeweler, and its exquisite diamond craftsmanship that has dazzled for centuries.
In the dazzling world of haute joaillerie, few names carry the weight of history and innovation quite like Mellerio. Founded in 1613, Mellerio is the world’s oldest jewelry house, revered for its unparalleled craftsmanship, exquisite designs, and its deep-rooted connection to European royalty. Over centuries, this Parisian maison has evolved into a cornerstone of fine jewelry, where heritage meets creativity. With pieces that have graced monarchs and modern tastemakers alike, the jeweler’s natural diamonds are more than just precious stones—they’re an enduring testament to artistry and legacy.
This legacy has found a home at the treasure chest that is the Bergdorf Goodman jewelry department, where the brand has established an exclusive presence, further cementing its place as a paragon of luxury. Among its stunning offerings are collections like the iconic Maglia line, inspired by the lightness and grace of golden fishing nets, and the patented Mellerio Cut, a revolutionary diamond cut born from centuries of expertise.
Only Natural Diamonds: Can you tell us about the history of diamond use in Mellerio’s jewelry designs?
Laure-Isabelle Mellerio: Diamonds have been integral to the brand’s designs since the 18th century, when the maison was granted the royal privilege to craft with gold and set precious stones. From the courts of Europe to modern collections, diamonds have starred in Mellerio’s masterpieces, including Princess Mathilde’s diamond rose bouquet and Empress Eugénie’s peacock feather brooch. A signature of the house is the patented Mellerio Cut, featuring 57 facets inspired by the legendary “Beau Sancy” diamond gifted to Marie de Medici. This cut embodies our commitment to innovation and excellence, blending timeless artistry with modern brilliance.
OND: How has Mellerio’s approach to diamonds evolved over the years?
LIM: While steeped in tradition, our approach to diamonds is anything but static. The house has embraced a more creative and innovative outlook, ensuring its designs remain relevant while honoring its heritage. The Mellerio Cut continues to be a defining element of its identity, showcasing how the maison merges centuries-old expertise with modern trends.
OND: Where does Mellerio source its diamonds?
LIM: Mellerio is committed to sourcing diamonds ethically, in line with the Kimberley Process. Partnering with trusted merchants, the maison prioritizes quality, purity, and traceability to ensure every diamond meets its rigorous standards.
OND: What criteria does Mellerio use to select diamonds for its jewelry?
LIM: Mellerio applies uncompromising standards, selecting diamonds with exceptional purity, brilliance, and cut. While colorless or near-colorless stones are preferred, the house also celebrates its exclusive Mellerio Cut, a hallmark of its identity. Ethical sourcing remains a priority, ensuring each diamond is as responsible as it is radiant.
OND: Can you describe the process of crafting a piece of diamond jewelry at Mellerio?
LIM: Creating a diamond piece is an intricate journey that blends inspiration, artistry, and craftsmanship. Designers draw from sources like nature, art, and the maison’s rich history to create sketches and technical drawings. Diamonds are incorporated early in the design phase, with particular attention given to the Mellerio Cut, which enhances brilliance. From concept to completion, every step reflects the brand’s dedication to excellence.
OND: What are some of the unique techniques Mellerio uses when working with diamonds?
LIM: The Mellerio Cut is central to the maison’s artistry, paying homage to the historic Beau Sancy diamond. Additionally, Mellerio masterfully combines diamonds with unexpected materials like lapis lazuli, onyx, and mother-of-pearl, creating pieces that blend tradition with contemporary flair.
OND: Can you share some examples of iconic Mellerio pieces that feature diamonds?
LIM: Mellerio’s diamond legacy shines through collections like Maglia, inspired by fishnet jewelry from the early 1900s, and Giardino, which evokes the natural beauty of gardens. Iconic pieces include the cascading Waterfalls set, designed to mirror the elegance of the Villa d’Este’s fountains, and the regal Color Queen collection, celebrating the maison’s Italian Renaissance roots.
Diamonds are more than just stones—they are the embodiment of creativity, history, and emotion.
OND: How do diamonds fit into Mellerio’s overall design philosophy?
LIM: Diamonds are more than just stones—they are the embodiment of creativity, history, and emotion. Each diamond represents the maison’s philosophy of excellence, seamlessly blending heritage and innovation to create timeless designs.
Innovation is at the heart of Mellerio’s diamond artistry. The patented Mellerio Cut reflects the maison’s willingness to push boundaries, creating unparalleled brilliance. By combining diamonds with unique materials and experimenting with bold, contemporary designs, the brand ensures its pieces remain fresh and captivating.
OND: Are there any upcoming collections or pieces featuring diamonds that you can preview?
LIM: Two stunning high-jewelry pieces debuting at the Bergdorf Goodman pop-up include the Jardin Pierreries necklace, featuring diamonds that echo the beauty of nature, and the Talisman Nuit Étoilée medal, where endiamant stars offer a modern twist on celestial inspiration.
From its groundbreaking Mellerio Cut to its modern collections at Bergdorf Goodman, Mellerio continues to redefine diamond jewelry with a perfect blend of history and innovation. For centuries, this maison has transformed diamonds into wearable works of art, crafting timeless pieces that carry the weight of legacy and the promise of brilliance for generations to come.
