Nicole Kidman Finds Direction with Monica Rich Kosann’s Compass Necklace in Babygirl

Nicole Kidman’s necklace, made by Monica Rich Kosann in the Golden Globe-nominated film Babygirl symbolically tells her story through its Compass design. The role of a costume designer is to tell a story through subtle choices in style. This comes through in the actual clothing—does she express her power through a suit? Her femininity through florals?—but of course, jewelry plays an important role as well, especially if it glitters with natural diamonds.

Kidman’s character, Romy Mathis is a bit of an enigma. She is a wife, mother, and high-power CEO who finds herself enthralled with her 20-something intern, submitting to him in a total reversal of her authoritative outer life.

“Nicole’s character Romy has a performative approach to her clothing choices and how she presents herself,” shares one of Babygirl’s costume designers Bart Mueller. “Romy dresses to project an idea of all of these archetypal roles of mother, wife, leader, and lover.” But, behind closed doors, the audience sees her willingness to submit.  “We wanted all of the looks for the character to reflect that sense of careful consideration and control. That included the jewelry she wore in the film,” he explains, specifically Nicole Kidman’s necklace.

“Often finding the right piece of jewelry means trying on things from a big selection,” says Mueller of the wardrobe process. “However, when we first came across the Monica Rich Kosann compass pendant, we knew it was the one. The only real choice was whether it should be the diamond or sapphire accent.”

Oftentimes, costume designers will add jewelry to a look once the clothing component is complete. However, Monica Rich Kosann’s Compass necklace was one of the rare times the jewelry came first. “Even before we had done fittings for all of Nicole’s many looks in the film, we knew we had found the necklace that she wears in nearly every scene,” confirms Kurt Swanson who also worked as a costume designer on the film.

When a piece of jewelry connects immediately to your actor, your director, and to yourself as a designer, you know you have the right one.

Swanson explains Nicole Kidman’s necklace is “core to the character who is trying to explore new territory and also trying to stay anchored to her family and home life.” The piece designed by jeweler Monica Rich Kosann is engraved with the initials of Romy’s two daughters, a “literal and symbolic” choice, he says. “That’s a great find when a piece of jewelry can help support that kind of storytelling.”

Romy may think she knows her path and direction, but life throws her for a loop when she meets handsome intern Samuel. The compass necklace with her daughters’ initials is supposed to remind her of this path, but also represent this new direction she finds herself walking.

Mueller agrees. “When a piece of jewelry connects immediately to your actor, your director, and to yourself as a designer, you know you have the right one!”