Shola Branson’s Responsibly Sourced Collection Debuts at Sotheby’s Paris

This month, Sotheby’s Paris is hosting British-Nigerian jewelry designer Shola Branson in his first exhibition at the esteemed auction house, where his newest collection, Fragments, will be on display. Fragments is inspired by archeological fragments of a fictional lost civilization and is designed entirely in 18K SMO (Single Mine Origin) Gold from the Endeavour Sabodala-Massawa mine in Senegal. Like natural diamonds from ethical mines in South Africa, Botswana, Canada, and beyond, SMO Gold from the Endeavour Sabodala-Massawa mine is known for its dedication to biodiversity and responsible mining practices.

“SMO gold enables me to engage directly with its provenance and even select the mine. For this collection, I’ve chosen gold from the Sabodala mine in Senegal. Paired with Botswanamark diamonds, which I believe have a real synergy with SMO Gold, this combination represents a commitment to sourcing materials responsibly,” Branson says.

The partnership with Sotheby’s was a natural one, especially after the opening of its newly expanded Paris headquarters, which offers 30% more exhibition space and allows the auction house to showcase even more talented jewelers and designers in-house.

“As a self-taught artisan, Shola consistently brings an element of surprise to his creations, especially in the way he uses colored diamonds,” Sotheby’s says in a press release. “We’re delighted to showcase Shola Branson’s latest collection in our Paris galleries and allow jewelry lovers and collectors alike to discover or rediscover his arresting artistry.”

Ahead, we spoke to the designer about the inspiration behind the collection, his partnership with Sotheby’s, and why using natural diamonds is important to his designs.

Only Nautral Diamonds: Can you share your designer origin story? How did you start working with precious metals and gemstones?

Shola Branson:I grew up just outside London in a creative household, immersed in music, art, and design from a young age. Although I briefly studied at Central Saint Martins, I found myself more drawn to hands-on creation than formal coursework. After a stint in fashion, I discovered a lost-wax carving evening workshop at the London Jewellery School. It instantly resonated with me and led me to teach myself the fundamentals of jewelry-making.

Later, I spent about six months at an antique jewelry workshop in Hatton Garden – a short but transformative period that opened my eyes to historical design and deepened my appreciation for gemstones. I began selling my own work in 2018, starting with smaller scale pieces in lower carat gold and silver before gradually moving into 18k gold and precious gemstones. While my aesthetic has evolved from those early experiments, it continues to be shaped by many of the same core inspirations.

OND: How did the collaboration with Sotheby’s come about?

Branson: Melanie Grant and Frank Everett saw something in my work when they were curating the exhibition Brilliant and Black at Sotheby’s in 2021. At this point, I was still finding my voice and design language, having only been making jewelry for a couple of years. Since then, Frank has continued to champion my designs, and it felt like the right time to work with Sotheby’s again to showcase my latest collection.

OND: Why is it important for you to use natural diamonds?

Branson: I feel inspired by the rare conditions under which natural diamonds form and the immense geological timescales that make them so ancient. I also believe that stones carry a unique energy, one that cannot be replicated through any synthetic process. 

OND: Why SMO gold?

Branson: I chose to work with SMO after recognizing the opacity in the gold industry and seeing how responsible sourcing is a crucial step in the right direction. By focusing on transparency and accountability, I want to help encourage the jewelry industry to move toward a fairer future.  I think institutions, suppliers, and makers are increasingly recognizing their responsibility to establish and promote traceability, and that’s already making a real impact on the industry. There’s still a long way to go, and some materials are definitely easier to trace than others. Ultimately, I’m eager for us to reach a point where we can identify the exact origin of every single material we use. 

OND: What is the inspiration behind the collection?

Branson: My latest collection, Fragments, is inspired by the idea of discovering archaeological remains from a fictional lost civilization. I’m fascinated by how history, technology, and culture intertwine in cyclical ways. Our progress as a species isn’t strictly linear, and much of what feels futuristic can also seem primordial. These pieces, featuring brushed gold finishes, cartouche silhouettes, and intricate stone settings, are meant to evoke artifacts that transcend time. I want each piece to feel as though it’s something you could find in a museum centuries from now.