Historic Diamonds
Vanderbilt Jewels & Fancy Color Diamonds Hit Sotheby’s Auction Block
Sotheby’s June High Jewelry auction brings together the grandeur of Vanderbilt jewels, modern masterpieces from Graff, and a rainbow of rare natural colored diamonds.
Written by: Grant Mobley, May 23, 2025.
The June High Jewelry auction from Sotheby’s New York, one of the year’s most anticipated jewelry events, has been revealed. This year’s Sotheby’s jewelry auction combines storied heritage with exceptional craftsmanship through jewels from two famous American families, a 60-year love story, and the world’s rarest diamonds.
The estate of Emily Vanderbilt Wade, whose roots link both the Vanderbilt and Wade families, provides an exceptional collection of four pieces to lead the sale. The Vanderbilt name evokes images of Gilded Age grandeur, railroads, and American aristocracy. At the same time, the Wade family—led by Jeptha Homer Wade, founder of Western Union—was instrumental in shaping Cleveland’s civic and cultural institutions. These families represent more than their fortune; they embody a sustained dedication to public service through the arts, science, and innovation.
Ahead, discover the standout pieces and captivating stories behind the jewels featured in this season’s Sotheby’s jewelry auction.
Meet the Expert
- Grant Mobley is the Jewelry & Watch Editor of Only Natural Diamonds.
- He is a GIA Diamonds Graduate with over 17 years of jewelry industry experience, starting with growing up in his family’s retail jewelry stores.
- He has extensively covered rare and historic jewels, including landmark events such as Sotheby’s jewelry auctions.
The Vanderbilt Collection at the Sotheby’s Jewelry Auction
Emily “Paddy” Vanderbilt Wade distinguished herself as a trailblazer in her field. She graduated from MIT with a chemistry degree in 1945 as one of only seven female students in her class. She met her future husband, Jeptha H. Wade III, there before founding the Museum Institute for Teaching Science. Her estate presents a collection of heirloom jewels at the Sotheby’s jewelry auction, demonstrating her family’s sophistication and her incredible taste.
A standout piece in her collection includes an Art Deco diamond bracelet from Cartier (est. $60,000 – $80,000). The bracelet is a pristine example of the Maison’s geometric elegance from the 1920s and 30s. The collection also features a stunning ruby and diamond necklace by Marcus & Co. valued at $1-2 million. The ruby’s exceptional size and color highlight the brand’s dedication to quality and artistic excellence. Next is a dreamlike René Lalique pendant (est. $20,000 to $30,000) that embodies the whimsical poetry of the Art Nouveau era.
This collection ends with a luxurious tassel sautoir studded with rubies, emeralds, pearls, and diamonds that Paulding Farnham likely created for Tiffany & Co. The sumptuous tassel sautoir demonstrates the luxurious innovation typical of Tiffany & Co. at its peak. Though unsigned, the piece’s provenance and craftsmanship all but confirm its Tiffany origins.
Romantic Private Collection Highlights at the Sotheby’s Jewelry Auction
Another major moment in the Sotheby’s jewelry auction comes from “Joie de Vivre: A Journey in Jewels”, a collection featuring thirteen remarkable jewels that a devoted husband gifted his wife during their lifetime together. This intimate capsule tells a tale of lasting love through its exceptional gems and flawless craftsmanship. From the monumental 35-carat emerald-cut D-color diamond ring by Graff (est. $2-3 million) to the dazzling sugarloaf cabochon emerald and diamond ear clips by the same house (est. $1.5-2.5 million), each jewel marks a moment in the couple’s love story. Other highlights from this collection include an Art Deco aquamarine and diamond bracelet (est. $40,000 – $60,000) and a jade and diamond pendant-brooch from the 1910s (est. $25,000 – $35,000).
Colored Diamonds at Sotheby’s Jewelry Auction
It wouldn’t be a Sotheby’s High Jewelry sale without some remarkable natural diamonds to lead the pack. This year’s offerings are exceptional and represent the whole rainbow of colors that natural diamonds can form in. A 5.02-carat Fancy Pink Diamond ring (est. $1.5 – 2 million) stands as the top item in the natural colored diamond category along with a 2.02-carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond (est. $1.4 – 1.8 million), an incredibly rare Fancy Green-Blue Diamond ring weighing 2.61 carats (est. $250,000 – 350,000), and a 26.19 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring (est. $750,000 – 1 million).
To top it all off, the Sotheby’s jewelry auction features not one, but eight of the rarest natural diamond colors of them all: red. The largest of which is a 0.47 carat oval that will be sold on its own, and a suite of seven natural red diamonds of various shapes to be sold as a single lot.
René LaliqueRené Lalique’s Art Nouveau Masterpieces at the Sotheby’s Jewelry Auction
Art Nouveau enthusiasts will also find a rare treat at Sotheby’s jewelry auction: five pieces by master jeweler René Lalique. The design of these jewels combines high-quality materials with narratives that merge elegance and mythology. “Le Vol de la Pierre” or “The Theft of the Stone” stands out as a corsage ornament where a central peridot sits between carved glass panels showing nude men trying to steal the stone while horrified onlookers watch (est. $30,000 – $50,000). The collection also showcases a multicolored enamel sautoir adorned with opposing peacocks hanging from enameled feather links. (est. $30,000 – $50,000).
Together, the collections from Sotheby’s jewelry auction resonate perfectly with current market trends that prioritize storytelling and provenance. The collection spans from Vanderbilt-Wade heirlooms’ elegance to the rarest of the rare natural diamond colors. Every lot in Sotheby’s most anticipated sale offers something that goes far beyond carats and clarity. It is about history, love, craftsmanship, and a legacy passed down through generations.
Sotheby’s June High Jewelry sale celebrates lives lived through jewels and stories told in carats, rarity, and craftsmanship. This event presents collectors, historians, and romantics with a unique opportunity to experience the essence of high jewelry. And with pieces like these, who wouldn’t want to take part in their next chapter?
