Tricolour Gems: From Divinity to Modernity

What makes the number three so compelling? Is it the balance it brings or the quiet strength it exudes? Across cultures, the idea of three has always felt complete—perfect trio, whether in geometry, myth, or design. In India, this concept finds resonance in stories of creation, preservation, and transformation, as well as in the enduring combination of natural diamonds, emeralds, and rubies.

Inspired by nature’s beauty, floral creations bloom with delicate diamonds, rubies, and emeralds.
Images courtesy of: The House of Rose, Shruti Sushma

This tricolour palette has carried meaning across centuries, embodying power, prosperity, and a connection to the divine. From the Trimurti—Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, representing the eternal cycle of life—to the Tridevi—Saraswati, Lakshmi, and Parvati, symbolizing wisdom, wealth, and power—Indian thought is steeped in the harmony of threes. Even the nation’s identity reflects this, with the saffron, white, and green of the tricolour flag standing for courage, peace, and growth. In jewellery, this symbolism finds its most dazzling expression.

The combination of natural diamonds, emeralds, and rubies has adorned gods, royalty, and common people alike, transcending decoration to embody devotion and aspiration.

As we celebrate Indian craftsmanship, these gemstones remind us of a legacy that unites history, mythology, and artistry, continuing to inspire the designs of today.

Historical and Cultural Context

Jewels in India have always gone beyond adornment, carrying meanings that reflect the depth of the culture they emerge from. As art historian Usha Balakrishnan observes, they are far more than objects of beauty; they are storytellers, symbols of identity, and markers of devotion, status, and aspiration. Among these, the tricolour combination of natural diamonds, emeralds, and rubies emerges as a recurring motif, weaving its significance into Indian history and mythology.

These gemstones have long been linked to the divine, appearing in sacred objects crafted to evoke cosmic harmony and spiritual resonance. For example, rubies, with their fiery red hues, were often chosen to represent vitality and divine energy, while emeralds, with their lush green tones, symbolized growth and renewal. Natural diamonds, unmatched in their brilliance, were seen as emblems of purity and enlightenment, anchoring these compositions with a sense of clarity and strength.

Timeless design meets modern elegance in these minimal pieces for everyday wear by Moi.
Images courtesy of: Moi

In the hands of royalty, diamonds, emeralds, and rubies were not only symbols of wealth but also instruments of power and influence. The Mughal and Rajput kings often used such designs in their crowns and ceremonial regalia.

Turban ornaments, or sarpechs, were the epitome of regal opulence, blending exquisite craftsmanship with symbolic meaning. A 19th-century example from Arcot, part of the Khalili Collection features a stunning plume-like design, its curved form set with diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. The arrangement of gemstones reflected the wearer’s authority and refinement.

This sarpech, composed of a plume, a sarpatti (headband), and a pin, highlights the ingenuity of Indian artisans. The pin, with cabochon rubies, and the emerald bead at the tapering end added elegance, while its placement on the turban magnified the wearer’s presence. Natural diamonds, central to the design, symbolized strength and brilliance, grounding the piece in both power and art.

Trade Routes and Global Exchange

India’s prominence in the global gemstone trade is rooted in its reputation as the original home of natural diamonds. The legendary Golconda mines produced diamonds of exceptional clarity and brilliance, coveted by royal courts across Asia and Europe.

While emeralds from Colombia and rubies from Burma reached India through Persia and Southeast Asia, diamonds remained the centerpiece of India’s prestige. By the 17th century, Mughal jewellery, with its intricate use of Golconda diamonds in kundan and enamelled designs, began influencing European jewellers such as Mellerio, Boucheron, and Cartier.

The richness of Indian craftsmanship—its bold use of colour and complex techniques—left an indelible mark on European haute joaillerie, with elements of Mughal design and gemstones forming the cornerstone of many iconic creations.

The bold contrast of red, green, and white gemstones—diamonds, rubies, and emeralds—creates a dramatic interplay of color. Images courtesy of: Kaamya Jewels

Art Deco and Beyond

The Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s marked a radical departure in jewellery design, characterized by bold geometric styles and an emphasis on symmetry and modernity. This period embraced the visual drama of contrasting colours with tricolour gemstones rising to prominence, their striking contrasts lending themselves perfectly to the era’s aesthetic. Designers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Mauboussin leveraged the natural harmony between red, green, and white, often arranging them in dynamic patterns inspired by Indian motifs. The deliberate juxtaposition of the stones’ colours created dramatic pieces that epitomized the luxury and glamour of the Art Deco movement.

Dazzling expressions of tricolour gemstones, steeped in the harmonies of red, green, and white.
Images courtesy of: Khanna Jewellers, The House of Rose

Inspired by Indian jewellery traditions, Cartier’s “Tutti Frutti” collection became synonymous with the era, blending the craftsmanship of Mughal design with the clean lines and symmetry of Art Deco. The interplay of the gemstones’ striking tones reflected the exuberance and opulence of the Roaring Twenties, making them an essential part of Art Deco aesthetics.

The exchange of gemstones and designs between India and Europe deepened during this period, as Maharajas brought their collections of natural diamonds, rubies, and emeralds to European ateliers, commissioning pieces that blended their heritage with modern sensibilities.

A century later, these influences continue to inspire.

Natural Diamonds Today

At her brother Anant Ambani’s wedding, Isha Ambani’s choice of jewellery—a Navratan necklace by Viren Bhagat—captivated as much as the occasion itself. Featuring nine celestial gemstones, the piece combined traditional Indian astrology with a modern twist. Paired with mismatched emerald and diamond earrings, it demonstrated the tricolour palette’s capacity for reinvention.

(Left) A brooch embellished with diamonds, emeralds and rubies. (Right) Isha Ambani in the Navratan necklace by Viren Bhagat. Images courtesy of: Sunita Shekhawat, @virenbhagat_fp | Instagram

Natural diamonds continue to shine on global stages, with stars like Deepika Padukone in Cartier and Priyanka Chopra Jonas in Bulgari showcasing their elegance. From statement necklaces to cocktail rings, these gemstones bring a narrative of power and grace to every appearance.

(Left) This custom engagement ring by Andal Atelier for actor Siddharth features rubies, emeralds, blue gemstones, and princess-cut diamonds. (Right) Priyanka Chopra Jonas in a Bulgari necklace. Images courtesy of: Andal, @taruntahiliani | Instagram

Today, the tricolour palette serves as a canvas for reinvention. Viren Bhagat’s designs elevate tradition with contemporary style, while brands like Andal and Moi explore fresh interpretations of the gemstones.

A pair of emerald, ruby, and diamond earrings by Viren Bhagat, from the collection of a Lady of Title and a pair of delicate floral earrings by Tallin Jewels. Images courtesy of: © Sotheby’s Limited, Bhagat, Tallin Jewels.

Few combinations are as captivating as the trio of diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, which continue to evolve from symbols of divinity and royalty into icons of contemporary design. Reinterpreted for a new generation, these gemstones bridge India’s rich heritage with modern luxury, proving that the allure of natural diamonds truly remains eternal.