Royal Jewels Unseen for 100 Years Go to Auction at Sotheby’s

Centuries-old natural diamond pieces are being unveiled in Sotheby’s newest Royal auction.

By |

Few opportunities offer the chance to own a piece of royal history. This November, Sotheby’s Geneva is bringing one such opportunity to the spotlight with the auction titled A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948). This glittering assortment of over 100 pieces of fine jewelry, not seen publicly in almost a century, will be unveiled as part of the Royal & Noble Jewels Sale during Sotheby’s Luxury Week in Geneva.

This collection is nothing short of a treasure trove, steeped in both European and royal heritage. Designs spanning almost 100 years, these jewels come from the illustrious family of Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria, one of Europe’s most fascinating royal figures. Known for his exquisite taste in the arts and culture, Tsar Ferdinand’s appreciation for fine jewelry was nurtured by none other than his mother, Princess Clementine of Orléans. Princess Clementine, the daughter of the last French King, Louis Philippe I, was an avid collector of remarkable jewels, passing down her passion and pieces to her son. The collection also features heirlooms from key figures in the royal family, including pieces designed for his daughters, Princesses Eudoxia and Nadezha.

Philipp Württemberg, from Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, explained, “This collection of jewels has never left the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble. Some pieces belonged to Tsar Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous colored diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”

Diamond rivière necklace, late 19th century
Natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa 1865
An imperial Fabergé diamond and sapphire brooch, circa 1909

This auction is an unmissable opportunity for collectors, historians, and connoisseurs alike to witness the dazzling craftsmanship and opulence of one of Central Europe’s most prominent royal houses. These pieces showcase high jewelry’s importance in everyday life and grand ceremonial events at court. From tiaras to brooches, bracelets, and even cigarette cases, these works of art represent a nearly 100-year evolution in tastes and jewelry design, with many pieces produced by renowned Austro-Hungarian jewelers and other leading European names, including Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, and Castellani.

Among the collection’s most extraordinary items are those personally commissioned by Tsar Ferdinand himself, offering an intriguing glimpse into his refined aesthetic sensibilities. Practical masculine accessories such as cufflinks, tie pins, and cigarette cases are elevated to art with intricate designs featuring rare natural-colored diamonds and gemstones. The collection’s highlight is a breathtaking yellow gold tie pin adorned with a fleur-de-lis motif, set with a 2.08-carat Fancy Gray-Blue diamond, complemented by four other fancy-colored diamonds. This piece alone is expected to fetch between $500,000 and $700,000.

Fancy Gray-Blue diamond and colored diamond tie pin, early 20th century
Fancy Gray-Blue diamond and colored diamond tie pin, early 20th century

This auction also reflects the wide range of tastes and trends in jewelry design that influenced Tsar Ferdinand and his court over the decades. In addition to the masculine pieces, the sale features tiaras, brooches, and bracelets, many of which carry the essence of the era’s most influential European ruling families.

For those lucky enough to attend, the collection will be exhibited in Sotheby’s locations worldwide, starting in New York and followed by Singapore, Taipei, London, and Dubai, before the grand auction on November 13 at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva.

Pair of opal and diamond brooches, attributed to Köchert, circa 1861 and later
Gem set and diamond bracelet, Eugène Fontenay, circa 1870
Diamond bandeau, 1890s

Andres White Correal, Sotheby’s Head of Noble Jewels, said: “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria’ is a unique continuation of ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection’, offering us a privileged glimpse into the Tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life. His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European Royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste, and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honor for Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels to bring such bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time”.

Sotheby’s has collaborated with the Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH to bring this historic collection to auction, continuing the partnership that saw the Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection achieve a successful sale last year. For collectors and enthusiasts, A Tsar’s Treasure is a can’t-miss event. This auction will be a journey through the royal courts of Europe, immortalized through natural gemstones and fine designs that have withstood the test of time.